Written by Ben Chuang

When it comes to formal events, understanding the distinction between white tie and black tie dress codes is crucial. While both represent the height of men’s formal fashion, they differ in style, formality, and occasion.

This guide will walk you through the key elements of white tie and black tie attire, helping you navigate high-society events like gala dinners with confidence.

What Is White Tie?

White tie attire is the most formal Western dress code for men, often reserved for the most prestigious events. It follows a highly specific set of wardrobe rules including a black tailcoat, white wing-collared shirt, white waistcoat, white bow tie, high-waisted trousers with a satin stripe, and black patent leather shoes.

White tie is deeply rooted in historical elegance and is worn today at state banquets, royal galas, and other events where ceremonial dress is expected.

What Is Black Tie?

Black tie, while still a formal dress code, is a step down from white tie in terms of rigidity and exclusivity. A full guide on black tie vs formal dress codes here.

It typically consists of a black or midnight blue tuxedo, not a suit, one of your best tuxedo shirts, (sometimes with a pleated or piqué front), a black bow tie, and black patent leather or any other shoes worn with tuxedos.

Black tie is the standard dress code for evening events such as black tie weddings, fundraisers, and red carpet galas. Black tie events allow for minor personal expression in styling, such as pocket squares or subtle cufflinks in French cuffs, while still maintaining a refined appearance.

Formality Level

The clearest distinction between the two lies in their level of formality. White tie is the most ceremonial and formal attire a man can wear, often with little to no room for personalization.

Black tie events are still elegant and structured but allow slightly more freedom in fabric choices, types of jackets, and accessories. In the hierarchy of men’s dress codes, white tie sits at the top, with black tie just beneath it.

Essential Components of White Tie Attire

White tie attire has remained unchanged for over a century. A proper white tie look includes a black tailcoat that is cut short in the front and long in the back, never to be buttoned. It’s paired with high-waisted black type of pants such as trousers that feature a satin stripe on each side.

The white dress shirt must have a wing collar and be heavily starched. A white waistcoat is worn underneath, and a white bow tie completes the look. Accessories such as white gloves, a pocket watch, and even medals or honors may be included depending on the occasion.

Shoes must be black patent leather, traditionally opera pumps with a small grosgrain bow.

Essential Components of Black Tie Attire

Black tie (and black tie optional) offers a slightly more contemporary approach to formalwear. The key component is the dinner jacket or tuxedo, most commonly in black or midnight blue with satin or grosgrain lapels. Matching trousers typically have a single satin stripe down the side. The shirt is white and may be pleated or feature a piqué bib front.

A black silk bow tie is mandatory, while a cummerbund or black vest is optional but recommended to conceal the waistband. Dress shoes should feature highly polished black leather—patent leather Oxfords are ideal. Though stricter than semi formal occasions, black tie allows tasteful personal touches, such as shirts with subtle patterns or textures.

Comparison Table: White Tie vs Black Tie

Feature	White Tie	Black Tie
Formality Level	Most formal dress code	Formal dress code
Jacket	Black tailcoat	Black or midnight blue tuxedo
Shirt	White wing-collar shirt	White pleated or plain-front shirt
Bow Tie	White	Black
Waistwear	White waistcoat	Black cummerbund or vest (optional)
Trousers	Black with satin stripe	Matching tuxedo trousers
Shoes	Black patent leather court shoes	Black patent leather or Oxford shoes
Occasions	State dinners, royal events, Nobel galas	Weddings, galas, awards ceremonies

Occasions for White Tie

White tie events are the most formal of occasions. These include state dinners hosted by royalty or heads of state, diplomatic receptions, prestigious university ceremonies, and exclusive events like the Nobel Prize banquet or the Vienna Opera Ball.

Because these events are rare and invite-only, most people will seldom encounter a white tie occasion in their lifetime. When an invitation specifies white tie, strict adherence to full evening dress is expected, and deviation is generally considered inappropriate.

Occasions for Black Tie

Black tie events are significantly more common, especially in modern social and professional settings. Formal weddings, charity fundraisers, operas, black tie dinners, and award ceremonies all fall under this category.

Although still formal, the black tie dress code is less rigid, making it a popular choice for upscale events that aim to be elegant without feeling excessively ceremonial. In recent years, black tie attire has even entered the fashion mainstream with creative black tie interpretations on the red carpet.

Key Styling Differences

White tie and black tie may both be formal, but their aesthetics differ sharply. White tie's tailcoat gives the outfit a dramatic, historical silhouette—elegant but distinctly old-money. The white waistcoat and bow tie provide a strong visual contrast to the black coat and trousers, resulting in a clean, classic ensemble when you wear white tie.

Black tie attire is smoother and sleeker, offering a more modern profile that’s easier to wear. Where white tie is ceremonial and rigid, black tie is stylish and somewhat adaptable. Additionally, white tie sticks to a black-and-white color scheme, vs black tie, which offers subtle color and fabric variations within a formal boundary.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Wearing the wrong garment for either dress code can be a costly mistake. For white tie, the most frequent errors include substituting a tuxedo jacket for a tailcoat or wearing a black bow tie instead of white. Not wearing a waistcoat is another serious misstep.

With black tie, common blunders include wearing a standard black suit instead of a tuxedo, pairing it with a long tie instead of a bow tie, or skipping the cummerbund/vest when it’s needed. Fit is also important—regardless of formality, an ill-fitting suit jacket or shirt undermines the look completely.

Can You Rent These Outfits?

Because white tie is worn so infrequently, most men choose to rent rather than purchase the full ensemble if they must wear white tie. Rental shops that specialize in formalwear usually carry white tie packages complete with all required components.

Black tie, on the other hand, is worn often enough that many men opt to invest in their own tuxedo, especially if they attend semi formal weddings regularly. Buying a well-tailored tux can prove cost-effective in the long run, and it allows for minor customizations to suit personal taste.

Final Thoughts

White tie vs black tie both play essential roles in the world of men’s formal events. Knowing which is appropriate—and how to wear each correctly—not only ensures you respect the dress code but also helps you present yourself with elegance and class.

Whether you're attending a royal banquet or a symphony orchestra, understanding these timeless codes of dress will help you navigate any event with confidence.

FAQs About White Tie vs Black Tie

What's the difference between black tie and white tie?

Black tie and white tie dress code are both formal dress codes, but white tie is more formal and traditional. Black tie typically calls for a black tuxedo, white dress shirt, black bow tie, and black formal shoes.

White tie, on the other hand, requires a black tailcoat, white wing-collared shirt, white bow tie, white waistcoat, and black patent leather shoes. The overall look of white tie is more elaborate and ceremonial compared to the slightly more modern and simplified black tie attire.

What is fancier, black tie or white tie?

White tie dress code is considered fancier and more formal than black tie. It is the most prestigious dress code and is reserved for highly formal occasions such as royal galas, state banquets, and some elite evening balls.

While black tie is still very elegant, it is slightly more relaxed and more commonly seen at formal weddings, award ceremonies, and upscale parties.

What is an example of a white tie event?

An example of a white tie dress code event would be a state dinner at the White House or a royal banquet in the United Kingdom. Other examples include formal balls like the Vienna Opera Ball or high-society occasions such as Nobel Prize ceremonies, where the highest standard of white tie attire attire is expected.

What is the female equivalent of a white tie?

For women, the equivalent of white tie dress code is a full-length formal evening gown, often paired with long gloves and elegant jewelry. The dress should be floor-length and sophisticated in design, typically accompanied by refined accessories such as a clutch bag, understated heels, and sometimes a tiara if the event is exceptionally grand.